Your Sunscreen Might Be Failing You—Here’s What Dermatologists Wish You Knew

The fact that 1 in 5 Americans develop skin cancer in their lifetimes is sobering evidence that we don’t realize just how much we are exposed to UV rays throughout the day—even when we’re not out in the sun. Quick errands, a sunny car ride, sitting near a window, even prolonged screen time—all of it contributes to cumulative skin damage.

Because potentially cancerous skin damage from ubiquitous UV rays is so common, it’s important to know the early warning signs of skin cancer—otherwise known as the ABCDEs:

The good news is that diagnosing skin cancer in its early stages saves lives! In fact, 99% of people whose melanomas were diagnosed early survive past the 5-year mark and even longer. So, monitor your skin regularly for any changes and visit your dermatologist for a full-body skin cancer screening once a year. If you notice a suspicious spot, do not hesitate to schedule a same-day SPOT check right away. The sooner the better!

In addition to watching your skin for signs of trouble, wearing sunscreen and taking sun damage prevention measures can protect your skin and keep it looking younger and feeling healthier for years.

If you’ve ever found yourself wondering how to choose a sunscreen that will work the best for you, you’re not alone. It’s one of the questions our dermatologists get all the time! Lauren Redd breaks down the things you want to look for on the label:

“One of the most common mistakes is that people do not pick an SPF that is effective enough,” says Redd. “SPF tells you how long it would take the sun’s rays to cause a sunburn when using as directed versus without any protection. An SPF of 15 or less is usually not protective enough, especially when you’re out in the sun for prolonged periods.”

The higher the SPF rating, the fewer UV rays reach your skin. However, while the best sunscreen will have a higher SPF, keep in mind that the SPF level does not indicate how long you can play in the sun before developing a sunburn. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends wearing sunscreen with at least an SPF of 30 every day on all exposed skin. Remember, however, that each individual may have a different UV exposure threshold based on skin type. For example, people with pale skin burn more easily than people with darker skin tones who have more melanin. Sunscreen also wears off after a while, so:

Hot Tip: How Often to Apply Sunscreen

“How long it will truly take an individual’s skin to burn depends on their skin type, weather, time of year, etc.,” says Redd. “Regardless, sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours.”

The best sunscreen choices will say “broad spectrum” on the label. “A broad-spectrum sunscreen offers the best protection against both UVA and UVB light, which are both forms of light produced by the sun but at different wavelengths,” says Redd

UVB rays are primarily responsible for the painful sunburns. UVA, however, is the most common form of solar radiation we get on Earth, and it penetrates even more deeply, causing DNA damage and premature aging. Both of these can penetrate glass, fog, and clouds to reach your skin. This is why you need sunscreen that blocks them both.

“Spoiler alert—no sunscreen is truly waterproof,” says Redd. Sunscreen is a filter, not a shield. You sweat underneath it, and water washes over it—so it gradually breaks down.

That’s why the FDA only allows sunscreen to be labeled as water-resistant for either 40 or 80. You’ll find that information right on every bottle.

So, how often should you reapply sunscreen? It’s very clear:

Even if you’re dry, it’s smart to reapply every two hours—especially if you’re sweating or spending time outdoors.

Reading the ingredient list can feel overwhelming when you’re trying to choose the right sunscreen. Most formulas fall into two categories based on their active ingredients: mineral or chemical.

“I encourage my patients to look for a mineral-based sunscreen such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide because it acts as a physical blocker and does not contain any chemicals,” says Redd. “Mineral-based sunscreens sit on the surface of your skin and reflect the sun’s UV rays away from the body, instead of absorbing them.”

Although Redd often recommends mineral sunscreens as the best sunscreen options for people with sensitive skin, there is a place for a well-formulated chemical sunscreen, explains Redd:

“Chemical sunscreens work by converting harmful UV rays into non-damaging energy. However, patients with darker skin tones may prefer sunscreen instead of sunblock as they tend to be translucent instead of thick and white.”

Choose a sunscreen with fewer rather than more ingredients. Additives like fragrances, alcohol, and other irritants can aggravate sensitive skin and cause problems for people with skin conditions like eczema, acne, or psoriasis. This is especially true when looking for the best sunscreen for face skin.

“Patients with acne-prone skin want to look for sunscreens labeled as “non-comedogenic” which is the fancy term for “non-acne forming,” explains Redd. “A mineral-based sunscreen may also be more beneficial, as sun exposure and damage can worsen hyperpigmentation that is also commonly associated with acne. Patients with dry, sensitive, or eczema-prone skin want to look for sunscreens that have a creamy consistency/moisturizing vehicle and are alcohol-free. A mineral-based sunscreen may also be more beneficial for these patients to avoid harmful sun rays.”

If you have sensitive skin or a condition that makes choosing the best sunscreen a little more complicated, schedule an appointment to talk with a dermatologist who can guide you toward an option that works best for you.

Everybody’s skin is different, and even for each individual, figuring out how to choose sunscreen for your arms and legs will be different than finding the best sunscreen for face skin, which is usually more sensitive. Here are some general rules to go by:

Applying sunscreen correctly matters just as much as wearing it—here’s how to get it right.

How Much Sunscreen Should I Use?

Redd says that you should use about a teaspoon for your face and a full shot glass amount for the whole body.

When Should I Put on Sunscreen?

Make sure to apply sunscreen at least 15 to 30 minutes before going outside and then reapply it every 2 hours.

How Do I Work Sunscreen into My Daily Skincare Routine?

“I usually recommend using your daily facial cleanser, then applying sunscreen or moisturizer with your SPF,” says Redd. “After a few minutes, when that is well absorbed, then you can layer on your makeup products. However, if you’re going to be exposed to the sun all day, remember to still apply sunscreen every 2 hours.”

It’s easy to miss a spot—and some areas are forgotten more often than others.

“The ears and neck are very commonly forgotten,” says Redd. “If you are traveling to a beach or a pool, the feet are also a commonly missed area. It is extra important that the most sun-exposed areas – face, neck, scalp (especially for bald individuals), hands, and forearms are protected.”

So before you leave the house (remember to pack sunscreen for reapplication), make sure to double-check and slather these areas with sunscreen:

Because everyone’s skin is different, it can take some trial and error to find the right one that will become part of your daily skincare routine:

“If you find that your sunscreen is irritating or bothering your skin, it may be time to try another type of sunscreen,” says Redd. “Also, if you repeatedly get sunburned despite sunscreen use, it may be time to reconsider increasing the SPF you are using or change to another type of sunscreen.”

If you find yourself in a situation like that, make sure to work with your dermatologist to find one that will provide strong protection while not irritating your skin. Sometimes it’s a matter of switching to mineral-based sunscreen from a chemical one.

Even the best sunscreen is a temporary filter—not a suit of armor. That’s why it works best as part of a broader sun protection routine. Think protective clothing, wide-brimmed hats, and sticking to the shade when the sun is strongest (typically 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.).

Sunscreen is still one of the most powerful tools you have for keeping your skin healthy. It’s not just about vanity—it’s about long-term wellness, cancer prevention, and aging gracefully.

“Sunscreen usage prevents the visible and microscopic changes that occur with aging, and daily use can help reduce damage from the sun’s harmful effects,” says Redd. “It can help reduce precancerous lesions and skin cancer. Remember: one in five Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime, and regular sunscreen use can help decrease your chances of developing skin cancer.”

Working sunscreen into your daily skincare routine can keep you looking younger and help you avoid the ravages of skin cancer. If you feel overwhelmed with choices, worried about skin irritation, or just want to know what sunscreen will work best in your situation, working with your dermatology provider will help.

Here at Apex Skin, we take your entire skin health situation into account and can guide you in making informed sunscreen choices that will work for you and your family.  Schedule a consultation with our skincare experts today to discuss sunscreen or any aspect of your skin health. And remember to schedule your annual full-body skin cancer screening, or a same-day SPOT check for any spots you are worried about right now!

Plus right now, we even have a 20% off sale on all of Apex Skin’s own dermatologist-approved sunscreen options. Check it out!